Excerpt from standard:

The Ecolabel criteria reflect the best environmental performing products on the market of textiles. Whilst the use of chemical products and release of pollutants is part of the production process, a product that bears the EU Ecolabel guarantees the consumer that the use of such substances has been limited to the extent technically possible without prejudice to the fitness for use. The criteria exclude whenever possible or restrict at minimum the concentration (required for providing specific functions and properties) of a number of substances identified as hazardous or potentially hazardous to the human health and the environment that may be used to manufacture textiles. Only where a substance is required to meet consumer performance expectations or mandated requirements for the product (for instance flame retardancy), and where there are no applied and tested available alternatives, derogation for such a substance to be used in the Ecolabel is granted. Derogations are evaluated on the basis of the precautionary principle and scientific and technical evidence, especially if safer products are available on the market. Product testing for restricted hazardous substances is requested in order to provide a high level of assurance to consumers. Strict conditions are also imposed on the manufacturing processes for textiles to control pollution of water and air, and to minimise exposure of the workforce. The verification of compliance with the criteria is formulated in a way that provides a high level of assurance to consumers, reflects the practical potential for applicants to obtain information from the supply chain and excludes the potential for ‘free riding’ by applicants. Criterion 13. Restricted Substance List (RSL) 13(a) General requirements The final product and the production recipes used to manufacture the final product shall not contain the hazardous substances listed in the Restricted Substance List at or above the specified concentration limits or according to the specified restrictions. The RSL can be found in Appendix 1. The restrictions in the RSL take precedence over the derogations listed in Criterion 14, Table 6. The RSL shall be communicated to suppliers and agents responsible for the spinning, dyeing, printing and finishing stages of production. Verification and testing requirements are specified in the RSL for each production stage and for the final product. Laboratory testing, where required, shall be carried out for each product line based on random sampling. Testing shall be carried out annually during the license period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the RSL. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance with the RSL supported by evidence as applicable to the substances and production recipes used to manufacture the final product. The requirements are indicated in the RSL and include declarations obtained from those responsible for related production stages, declarations from chemical suppliers and test results from laboratory analysis of samples of the final product. Declarations obtained from production stages shall be supported by safety data sheets (SDS) for production recipes and, where necessary, declarations from chemical suppliers. SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1)(Guide to the compilation of safety data sheets). Incomplete SDS shall require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers.

Referenzdokumente:

annex page 6/50 criterion 13a)

Excerpt from standard:

13(b) Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC's) ▼M1 The final product including any component or accessory shall not, unless specifically derogated, contain substances that fulfil the following conditions: (i) They meet the criteria in Article 57 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006; (ii) They have been identified according to the procedure described in Article 59(1) of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 which establishes the candidate list for substances of very high concern. This applies to substances used to impart function to the final product and to substances that have been intentionally used in production formulas. No derogation shall be given concerning substances of very high concern that are present in a textile article, or in any homogeneous part of a textile article, in concentrations higher than 0,10 % (weight by weight). ▼B A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: Substances and recipes used at each production stage shall be screened against the latest version of the candidate list published by ECHA. The applicant shall compile declarations of compliance from each production stage supported by screening documentation. Where a derogation has been granted then the applicant shall show that use of the substance is in compliance with the concentration limits and derogation conditions set out in the RSL. (f) Restrictions applying to all production stages Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC's) (i) Substances that have been entered onto the ECHA Candidate List. Applicability All products. SVHC's that have been identified according to Article 59 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (REACH) as meeting the criteria of Article 57 of that Regulation and are listed in the candidate list for eventual inclusion in Annex XIV of REACH (‘Candidate List’) that is current at the time of application shall not be present in the final product, either or to impart function to the final product or that have been intentionally used during production stages, unless a derogation has been approved. The current Candidate List can be consulted at: http://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/candidate- list-table No derogation from the exclusion in this criterion shall be given concerning substances identified as SVHC's and which have been entered onto the list foreseen in Article 59 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006, and which are present in the article or in any homogenous part of it in concentrations of more than 0,10 %. Verification: Declaration of compliance by each production stage and their chemical suppliers.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 13b) appendix 1 f-1)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 14. Substitution of hazardous substances and mixtures used in dyeing, printing and finishing Substances and mixtures applied to fabrics and knitted panels during dyeing, printing and finishing processes which remain on the final product and, in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 1 ), meet the criteria for classification with the hazard classes or risk phrases listed in table 5 shall not be used unless they have been specifically derogated. These restrictions shall also apply to functional substances incorporated into synthetic fibres and man-made cellulose fibres during their manufacturing. This criterion applies to production chemicals in the form in which they are applied to the product, either as substances or mixtures. 14(a) Hazard classification restrictions The hazard classifications restricted are listed in Table 5. The most recent classification rules adopted by the European Union shall take precedence over the listed hazard classifications and risk phrases. Applicants shall therefore ensure that any classifications are based on the most recent classification rules. The use of substances or mixtures which change their properties upon processing (e.g., become no longer bioavailable, undergo chemical modification) so that the identified hazard no longer applies are exempted from the above requirements. This shall include polymers that have been modified to incorporate a function and monomers or additives which become covalently bonded with polymers. Table 5 Restricted hazard classifications and risk phrases and their CLP categorisation Acute toxicity Category 1 and 2 Category 3 H300 Fatal if swallowed (R28) H301 Toxic if swallowed (R25) H310 Fatal in contact with skin (R27) H311 Toxic in contact with skin (R24) H330 Fatal if inhaled (R23/26) H331 Toxic if inhaled (R23) H304 May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways (R65) EUH070 Toxic by eye contact (R39/41) Specific target organ toxicity Category 1 Category 2 H370 Causes damage to organs (R39/23, R39/24, R39/25, R39/26, R39/27, R39/28) H371 May cause damage to organs (R68/20, R68/21, R68/22) H372 Causes damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure (R48/25, R48/24, R48/23) H373 May cause damage to organs through prolonged or repeated exposure (R48/20, R48/21, R48/22) Respiratory and skin sensitisation Category 1A Category 1B H317: May cause allergic skin reaction (R43) H317: May cause allergic skin reaction (R43) H334: May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled (R43) H334: May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled (R42) Carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction Category 1A and 1B Category 2 H340 May cause genetic defects (R46) H341 Suspected of causing genetic defects (R68) H350 May cause cancer (R45) H351 Suspected of causing cancer (R40) H350i May cause cancer by inhalation (R49) H360F May damage fertility (R60) H361f Suspected of damaging fertility (R62) H360D May damage the unborn child (R61) H361d Suspected of damaging the unborn child (R63) H360FD May damage fertility. May damage the unborn child (R60, R60/61) H361fd Suspected of damaging fertility. Suspected of damaging the unborn child (R62/63) H360Fd May damage fertility. Suspected of damaging the unborn child (R60/63) H362 May cause harm to breast fed children (R64) H360Df May damage the unborn child. Suspected of damaging fertility (R61/62)

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 14 criterion 14a) table 5

Excerpt from standard:

Article 4 Filling materials that are not made from textile fibres shall comply with restrictions listed in criterion 10 set out in the Annex that relate to auxiliaries, surfactants, biocides and formaldehyde Criterion 10. Fillings 10(b) Filling materials shall comply with the textile RSL' requirements for biocides and formaldehyde (see Appendix 1). (e)Restrictions applying to finishing processes Functional finishes, treatments and additives (i) Biocide finishes used to impart biocidal properties to the final products. Applicability: All products Biocidal products (within the meaning of Article 3(1)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 528/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 1 ) shall not be incorporated into fibres, fabrics or the final product in order to impart biocidal properties. Common examples include triclosan, nano-silver, zinc organic compounds, tin organic compounds, dichlorophenyl(ester) compounds, benzimidazol derivatives and isothiazolinones. n/a Verification: Declaration of non-use from the applicant (g)Restrictions applying to the final product (iii) Biocides used to protect textiles during transportation and storage. Applicability: All products Only biocidal products that contain active substances that are approved under Regulation (EC) No 528/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 1 ) are permitted for use. Applicants should consult the most current authorisation list: https://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/ information-on-chemicals/biocidal- active-substances The following substances are restricted: — Chlorophenols (their salts and esters) — Polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB) — Organotin compounds, including TBT, TPhT, DBT and DOT — Dimethyl fumarate (DMFu) n/a Verification: Declaration of non-use prior to shipping and storage supported by SDS.

Referenzdokumente:

article 4 criterion 10b appendix 1- e- i) appendix 1-g-iii)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 10. Fillings 10(b) Filling materials shall comply with the textile RSL' requirements for biocides and formaldehyde (see Appendix 1). (d)Restrictions applying to printing processes (ii) Printing pastes Applicability: Where printing is applied Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5 % Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC's). These may include: — aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10 — C20) —monomers such as acrylates, vinyl acetates, styrene —monomers such as acrylonitrile, acrylamide, butadiene — alcohols, esters, polyols — formaldehyde — phosphoric acid esters —benzene as impurity from upper hydrocarbons — ammonia (e.g., urea decomposition, biuret reaction) < 5,0 % w/w VOC content Verification: Declaration from applicant that no printing has been made or Declaration from printer supported by SDS and/or calculations for the printing paste. (g)Restrictions applying to the final product (ii)Formaldehyde residues Applicability: All products. Specific conditions apply to garments with easy care finishes (also referred to as non- crease or permanent press) The following limit values apply to residual formaldehyde from easy care finishes: Verification: Final product testing for products with an easy care finish. A declaration of non-use is required for all other products. Test method: EN ISO 14184-1 — Products for babies and children under 3 years old. 16 ppm — All products that are in direct contact with the skin 16 ppm — Garments with limited skin contact and interior textiles 75 ppm

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 10b) appendix 1 d ii) appendix 1 g ii)

Excerpt from standard:

(e)Restrictions applying to finishing processes. Biocides shall not be incorporated into fibres, fabrics or the final product in order to impart biocidal properties. Common examples include triclosan, nano- silver, zinc organic compounds, tin organic compounds, dichlorophenyl(ester) compounds, benzimidazol derivatives and isothiazolinones.

Referenzdokumente:

(nano-silver is prohibitied, other nanomateirals not explicit mentioned)

Excerpt from standard:

Substances that impart function to the final product Substance group Derogated hazard classifications Derogation conditions (ii) Flame retardants H317 (1B), H373, H411, H412, H413 — The product must be intended to be used in applications in which it is required to meet fire protection requirements in ISO, EN, Member State or public sector procurement standards and regulations. — The product shall meet the requirements for durability of function (see criterion 25) (ii) Flame retardants H351 is derogated for the application of antimony trioxide synergist as a backcoating for interior textiles. — The product must be intended to be used in applications in which it is required to meet fire protection requirements in ISO, EN, Member State or public sector procurement standards and regulations. —Emissions to air in the workplace where the flame retardant is applied to the textile product shall meet an eight hour occupational exposure limit value of 0,50 mg/m3. (e)Restrictions applying to finishing processes Functional (iv) Flame retardants Applicability: Where applied and as specified for synergists. The following flame retardants shall not be used: HBCDD — Hexabromocyclododecane PeBDE — Pentabromodiphenyl ether OcBDE — Octabromidiphenyl ether DecaBDE — Decabromodiphenyl ether PBBs — Polybrominated biphenyls TEPA — Tris(aziridinyl) phosphinoxide TRIS — Tris (2,3 dibromopropyl) phosphate TCEP — Tris (2,chloroethyl)phosphate Paraffin, C10-C13, chlorinated (SCCP) n/a Verification: Declaration of non-use supported by SDS The synergist antimony trioxide (H351) is derogated for use as a synergist for the backcoating of interior textiles only under the condition that the product is required to be flame retardant and that workplace occupational exposure limit values are met. Eight hour mean shift value ELV for 0,50 mg/m3 Verification: Monitoring data shall be provided by the finisher where the antimony trioxide is applied.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 14b appendix 1-e iv)

Excerpt from standard:

(a) Restrictions applying to fibre and yarn spinning and weaving Substance group Scope of restriction Limit values Verification requirements (i) Sizing preparations applied to fibres and yarns Applicability: Spinning processes At least 95 % (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be readily biodegradable. In all cases the sum of each component shall be taken into account. Readily biodegradable:: 70 % degradation of dissolved organic carbon within 28 days or 60 % of theoretical maximum oxygen depletion or carbon dioxide generation within 28 days. Verification:: Declaration from the chemical supplier supported by OECD or ISO test results Test method: OECD 301 A, ISO 7827 OECD 301 B, ISO 9439 OECD 301 C, (2) OECD 301 D, ISO 10708 OECD 301 E, OECD 301 F, ISO 9408, (ii) Spinning solution additives, spinning additives and preparation agents (including carding oils, spin finishes and lubricants) Applicability: Primary spinning processes At least 90 % (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be readily biodegradable, inherently biodegradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants. In all cases the sum of each component shall be taken into account. Readily biodegradable: See definition under (a)(ii) Inherently biodegradable: 70 % degradation of dissolved organic carbon within 28 days or 60 % of theoretical maximum oxygen depletion or carbon dioxide generation within 28 days. Eliminability: 80 % degradation of dissolved organic carbon within 28 days Verification: Declaration from chemical supplier supported by OECD or ISO test results Test method:See (a)(ii) for readily biodegradable tests. I nherently biodegradable tests that are accepted: ISO 14593 OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, ISO 9888 OECD 302 C, Tests for eliminability: OECD 303A/B ISO 11733 (e)Restrictions applying to finishing processes Functional finishes, treatments and additives (iii) Water, stain and oil repellent treatments Applicability: Where applied to provide the function. Fluorinated water, stain and oil repellent treatments shall not be used. These shall include perfluorinated and polyfluorinated treatments. Non-fluorinated treatments shall be readily and/or ultimately biodegradable, or non-bioaccumulative in the aquatic environment, including in aquatic sediment. They shall additionally comply with fitness for use criterion 25(a). n/a Verification: Declaration of non-use supported by SDS for the repellents used to be provided by finishers. Test method: n/a Detergents, surfactants, softeners and complexing agents (ii) All detergents, surfactants, fabric softeners and complexing agents Applicability: All wet processes At least 95 % by total weight of all fabric softeners, complexing agents, detergents and surfactants used at each wet processing site shall be: — readily biodegradable under aerobic conditions, or — inherently biodegradable, and/or — eliminable in wastewater treatment plants. The latest revision of the detergents ingredients database should be used as a reference point for biodegradability: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/ documents/did_list/didlist_part_a_en.pdf n/a Verification: Declaration chemical supplier supported by SDS and/or OECD or ISO test results Test method: See sizing and spinning agents (Appendix 1(a) i/ii) (iii) Non-ionic and cationic detergents and surfactants Applicability: All wet processes Non-ionic and cationic detergents and surfactants used at each wet processing site that are classified as hazardous to the aquatic environment according to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 shall be ultimately biodegradable under anaerobic conditions The detergents ingredients database should be used as a reference point for biodegradability: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/ documents/did_list/didlist_part_a_en.pdf n/a Verification: Declaration from SDS and/or chemical supplier supported by OECD or ISO test results Test method: EN ISO 11734, ECETOC No 28 OECD 311

Referenzdokumente:

appendix 1 a i) and ii) appendix 1 e iii) appendix 1 f ii) iii)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 14. Substitution of hazardous substances and mixtures used in dyeing, printing and finishing Substances and mixtures applied to fabrics and knitted panels during dyeing, printing and finishing processes which remain on the final product and, in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council ( 1 ), meet the criteria for classification with the hazard classes or risk phrases listed in table 5 shall not be used unless they have been specifically derogated. These restrictions shall also apply to functional substances incorporated into synthetic fibres and man-made cellulose fibres during their manufacturing. This criterion applies to production chemicals in the form in which they are applied to the product, either as substances or mixtures. 14(a) Hazard classification restrictions The hazard classifications restricted are listed in Table 5. The most recent classification rules adopted by the European Union shall take precedence over the listed hazard classifications and risk phrases. Applicants shall therefore ensure that any classifications are based on the most recent classification rules. The use of substances or mixtures which change their properties upon processing (e.g., become no longer bioavailable, undergo chemical modification) so that the identified hazard no longer applies are exempted from the above requirements. This shall include polymers that have been modified to incorporate a function and monomers or additives which become covalently bonded with polymers. Table 5 Restricted hazard classifications and risk phrases and their CLP categorisation Hazardous to the aquatic environment Category 1 and 2 Category 3 and 4 H400 Very toxic to aquatic life (R50) H412 Harmful to aquatic life with long-lasting effects (R52/53) H410 Very toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects (R50/53) H413 May cause long-lasting effects to aquatic life (R53) H411 Toxic to aquatic life with long-lasting effects (R51/53) Hazardous to the ozone layer EUH059 Hazardous to the ozone layer (R59)

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 14 criterion 14 a) table 5

Excerpt from standard:

(g)Restrictions applying to the final product (i) Candidate List SVHC's that are derogated. Applicability: Elastane, acrylic Verification: Final product testing Test method: Solvent extraction, GCMS or LCMS (ii)Formaldehyde residues Applicability: All products. Specific conditions apply to garments with easy care finishes (also referred to as non- crease or permanent press) Verification: Final product testing for products with an easy care finish. A declaration of non-use is required for all other products. Test method: EN ISO 14184-1 (iv) Extractable metals Applicability: All products with different limit values applying to babies and children under 3 years old. Verification: Final product testing Test method: Extraction — EN ISO 105-E04- 2013 (Acid sweat solution) Detection — ICP-MS or ICP- OES (vi) Accessories such as buttons, rivets and zips Applicability: Where incorporated into garment structure Verification: Testing of the composition of the metal components. Test methods: For nickel migration EN 12472-2005 EN 1811-1998+A1-2008 For other metals Detection — GC-ICP-MS

Referenzdokumente:

appendix 1 - g - i) appendix 1 - g - ii) appendix 1 - g - iv) appendix 1 - g - vi)

Excerpt from standard:

1(c) Pesticide restrictions applying to conventional and IPM cotton All cotton used in ecolabelled textile products, with the exception of organic cotton and cotton from IPM schemes exempted in 1(b), shall be grown without the use of any of the following substances: Aldicarb, aldrin, campheclor (toxaphene), captafol, chlordane, 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, cypermethrin, DDT, dieldrin, dinoseb and its salts, endosulfan, endrin, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers), methamidophos, methylparathion, monocrotophos, neonicotinoids (clothianidine, imidacloprid, thiametoxam), parathion, pentachlorophenol. The sum total of the listed pesticides detected upon testing of the cotton shall not be greater than 0,5 ppm. Assessment and verification:Cotton shall be tested for the listed substances. A test report shall be provided based on the following test methods, as appropriate: — US EPA 8081 B (organo-chlorine pesticides, with ultrasonic or Soxhlet extraction and apolar solvents (iso- octane or hexane)), — US EPA 8151 A (chlorinated herbicides, using methanol), — US EPA 8141 B (organophosphorus compounds), — US EPA 8270 D (semi-volatile organic compounds). Tests shall be made on samples of raw cotton from each country of origin and before it passes through any wet treatment. For each country of origin testing shall be carried out on the following basis: (i) Where only one lot of cotton is used per year a sample shall be taken from a randomly selected bale; (ii) If two or more lots of cotton are used per year composite samples shall be taken from 5 % of the bales. Cotton is not required to be tested where it has been certified by an IPM scheme that prohibits the use of the listed substances. Criterion 3. Wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep and lambs, and hair from camel, alpaca and goat) 3(a) The sum totals provided in Table 2 shall not be exceeded for wool ectoparasiticide concentrations on raw wool prior to scouring. These requirements shall not apply if documentary evidence can be presented that establishes the identity of the farmers producing at least 75 % of the wool or keratin fibres in question, together with an independent verification based on site visits that the substances listed above have not been applied to the fields or animals concerned. Table 2 Sum total restrictions on ectoparasiticide concentrations in wool Ectoparasiticide groups Sum total limit value γ-hexachlorocyclohexane (lindane), α- hexachlorocyclohexane, β-hexachlorocyclohexane, δ-hexachlorocyclohexane, aldrin, dieldrin, endrin, p,p'-DDT, p,p'- DDD 0,5 ppm Cypermethrin, deltamethrin, fenvalerate, cyhalothrin, flumethrin 0,5 ppm Diazinon, propetamphos, chlorfenvinphos, dichlofenthion, chlorpyriphos, fenchlorphos 2 ppm Diflubenzuron, triflumuron, dicyclanil 2 ppm Wool scourers that operate closed loop water systems without the discharge of wastewater effluent and which break down the aforementioned ectoparasiticides that may be present in scouring residues and sludge through incineration are derogated from the requirement for wool testing but must comply with at least two of the measures in 3(c) A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall either provide the documentation indicated above or compile test reports, using the following test method: IWTO draft test method 59. The test should be made on farmer or sales lots of raw wool, by country of origin (if mixed) and before any wet processing. A minimum of one composite sample of multiple farmer or sales lots from each country of origin shall be tested per processing lot. A composite sample should consist of either of the following: (i) wool fibres from at least 10 randomly selected farmer or sales lots (by country of origin), where there are more than 10 sales lots for that country of origin within the processing lot; (ii) one sample per sales lot or farmer lot (whichever is less) supplying the processing lot where there are less than 10 sales lots for that country of origin within the processing lot. Alternatively test reports may be submitted for all farmer or sales lots in a processing lot. Where a derogation applies then the applicant shall provide evidence confirming the scouring plant configuration and laboratory test reports demonstrating the breakdown of ectoparasiticides that may be present in scouring residues and sludge.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 1c) criterion 3a)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 13. Restricted Substance List (RSL) 13(a) General requirements The final product and the production recipes used to manufacture the final product shall not contain the hazardous substances listed in the Restricted Substance List at or above the specified concentration limits or according to the specified restrictions. The RSL can be found in Appendix 1. The restrictions in the RSL take precedence over the derogations listed in Criterion 14, Table 6. The RSL shall be communicated to suppliers and agents responsible for the spinning, dyeing, printing and finishing stages of production. Verification and testing requirements are specified in the RSL for each production stage and for the final product. Laboratory testing, where required, shall be carried out for each product line based on random sampling. Testing shall be carried out annually during the license period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the RSL. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance with the RSL supported by evidence as applicable to the substances and production recipes used to manufacture the final product. The requirements are indicated in the RSL and include declarations obtained from those responsible for related production stages, declarations from chemical suppliers and test results from laboratory analysis of samples of the final product. Declarations obtained from production stages shall be supported by safety data sheets (SDS) for production recipes and, where necessary, declarations from chemical suppliers. SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1)(Guide to the compilation of safety data sheets). Incomplete SDS shall require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers. Supplier Declaration: Appendix 1: RSL. (c) Restrictions applying to dye houses Name of product I, the undersigned, a dye house supplying the applicant hereby declare that I/we do not use:  halogenated dyeing accelerants (carriers) to dye synthetic fibres and fabrics or polyester-wool blends. (Examples of carriers include 1,2-dichlorobenzene, 1,2,4-trichlorobenzene, chlorophenoxyethanol). (Applicability: Polyester, polyester-wool blends, acrylic and polyamide where disperse dyes are used.)  dyes which are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (CMR) (as identified in Appendix 2). (Applicability: All products.)  dyes which are potentially sensitising (as identified in Appendix 2). (Applicability: polyester, acrylic, polyamide; Elasticated or stretchable skin contact garments or underwear.)  chrome mordant dyes. (Applicability: Wool, polyamide)  metal complex dyes based on copper, chrome and nickel except for dyeing (Applicability: Polyamide, wool, cellulose fibres) (TICK those which apply):  wool fibres  polyamide fibres  blends of wool and/or polyamide with man-made cellulose fibres I/We will keep our customer informed of any changes to our process which influences the validity of this declaration. Please provide SDS (Safety Data Sheets) to support this declaration.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 13 a) for example appendix 1-c i) iii) iv) v) vi)

Excerpt from standard:

(c)Restrictions applying to dye houses (ii) Azo dyes Applicability: Application of colours from Appendix 2 to acrylic, cotton, polyamide, wool fibres, knits and fabrics. Azo dyes shall not be used that may cleave to aromatic amines that are known to be carcinogenic. Appendix 2 contains a list of restricted aryl amines and an indicative list of azo dyes that may cleave to these aryl amines. The latter should be used as a guide to dyes that should not be used. The limit value for aryl amines shall be applied to the final product. 30 mg/kg for each amine(1) Verification: Final product testing to be carried out as specified. Test method: EN 14362-1 and 3. Appendix 2: Dye restrictions (b) Indicative list of dyes that may cleave to carcinogenic aromatic amines Disperse dyes Disperse Orange 60 Disperse Yellow 7 Disperse Orange 149 Disperse Yellow 23 Disperse Red 151 Disperse Yellow 56 Disperse Red 221 Disperse Yellow 218 (etc)

Referenzdokumente:

appendix 1 c ii) appendix 2 b)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 9. Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, modal and lyocell) Pulp production sub-criteria 9(c) Pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be bleached without the use of elemental chlorine. The resulting total amount of chlorine and organically bound chlorine in the finished fibres (OX) shall not exceed 150 ppm or in the wastewater from pulp manufacturing (AOX) shall not exceed 0,170 kg/ADt pulp. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance with either the OX or the AOX requirement, using the appropriate test method: OX: ISO 11480 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry). AOX: ISO 9562 (b)Restrictions applying to bleaching Substance group Scope of restriction Limit values Verification requirements Bleaching of yarns, fabrics and end products Applicability: All fibre types Chlorine agents shall not be used for the bleaching of any yarns, fabrics, knitted panels or end-products with the exception of man-made cellulose fibres. n/a Verification: Declaration of non-use by production stage(s)

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 9c) appendix 1 b)

Excerpt from standard:

(g) Restrictions applying to the final product (iv) Extractable metals Applicability: All products with different limit values applying to babies and children under 3 years old. The following limit values apply to products intended for babies and children under 3 years old: metal / mg/kg Antimony (Sb) 30,0 Arsenic (As) 0,2 Cadmium (Cd) 0,1 Chromium (Cr) — Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes1,0 — All other textiles0,5 Cobalt (Co)1,0 Copper (Cu)25,0 Lead (Pb)0,2 Nickel (Ni) — Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes1,0 — All other textiles0,5 Mercury (Hg)0,02 Verification: Final product testing Test method: Extraction — EN ISO 105- E04-2013 (Acid sweat solution) Detection — ICP-MS or ICP-OES (g) Restrictions applying to the final product (iv) Extractable metals The following limit values apply to all other products including interior textiles: mg/kg Antimony (Sb) 30,0 Arsenic (As) 1,0 Cadmium (Cd) 0,1 Chromium (Cr) — Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes 2,0 — All other textiles 1,0 Cobalt (Co) — Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes 4,0 — All other textiles 1,0 Copper (Cu) 50,0 Lead (Pb) 1,0 Nickel (Ni) 1,0 Mercury (Hg) 0,02 Verification: Final product testing Test method: Extraction — DIN EN ISO 105-E04-2013 (Acid sweat solution) Detection — ICP-MS or ICP-OES Declaration: Appendix 1: RSL. (g) Restrictions applying to the final product (vi) Accessories such as buttons, rivets and zips Name of product Applicability: Where incorporated into garment structure For metal accessories: Additionally testing shall be carried out for the presence of the following metals, to which the following limit values shall apply: Lead (Pb), 90 mg/kg Cadmium (Cd) — products intended for babies and children under 3 years old 50 mg/kg — all other products including interior textiles 100 mg/kg Chrome (Cr) where there is chrome plating 60 mg/kg Mercury (Hg) 60 mg/kg Verification: Testing of the composition of the metal components. Test methods: Detection — GC-ICP-MS

Referenzdokumente:

appendix 1 g iv) for babies appendix 1 g iv) for all other appendix 1 g vi)

Excerpt from standard:

The Ecolabel criteria reflect the best environmental performing products on the market of textiles. Whilst the use of chemical products and release of pollutants is part of the production process, a product that bears the EU Ecolabel guarantees the consumer that the use of such substances has been limited to the extent technically possible without prejudice to the fitness for use. The criteria exclude whenever possible or restrict at minimum the concentration (required for providing specific functions and properties) of a number of substances identified as hazardous or potentially hazardous to the human health and the environment that may be used to manufacture textiles. Only where a substance is required to meet consumer performance expectations or mandated requirements for the product (for instance flame retardancy), and where there are no applied and tested available alternatives, derogation for such a substance to be used in the Ecolabel is granted. Derogations are evaluated on the basis of the precautionary principle and scientific and technical evidence, especially if safer products are available on the market. Product testing for restricted hazardous substances is requested in order to provide a high level of assurance to consumers. Strict conditions are also imposed on the manufacturing processes for textiles to control pollution of water and air, and to minimise exposure of the workforce. The verification of compliance with the criteria is formulated in a way that provides a high level of assurance to consumers, reflects the practical potential for applicants to obtain information from the supply chain and excludes the potential for ‘free riding’ by applicants. Criterion 13. Restricted Substance List (RSL) 13(a) General requirements The final product and the production recipes used to manufacture the final product shall not contain the hazardous substances listed in the Restricted Substance List at or above the specified concentration limits or according to the specified restrictions. The RSL can be found in Appendix 1. The restrictions in the RSL take precedence over the derogations listed in Criterion 14, Table 6. The RSL shall be communicated to suppliers and agents responsible for the spinning, dyeing, printing and finishing stages of production. Verification and testing requirements are specified in the RSL for each production stage and for the final product. Laboratory testing, where required, shall be carried out for each product line based on random sampling. Testing shall be carried out annually during the license period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the RSL. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance with the RSL supported by evidence as applicable to the substances and production recipes used to manufacture the final product. The requirements are indicated in the RSL and include declarations obtained from those responsible for related production stages, declarations from chemical suppliers and test results from laboratory analysis of samples of the final product. Declarations obtained from production stages shall be supported by safety data sheets (SDS) for production recipes and, where necessary, declarations from chemical suppliers. SDS shall be completed in accordance with the guidance in Section 2.3,9,10, 11 and 12 of Annex II to Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1)(Guide to the compilation of safety data sheets). Incomplete SDS shall require supplementing by declarations from chemical suppliers.

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annex page 6/50 criterion 13a)

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Criterion 2. Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute and ramie) 2(b) Where water retting has been used the wastewater from retting ponds shall be treated so as to reduce the COD or TOC by at least 75 % for hemp fibres and by at least 95 % for flax and other bast fibres. A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: if water retting is used, the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance and using the following test method: ISO 6060 (COD) Criterion 3. Wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep and lambs, and hair from camel, alpaca and goat) 3(b) Wool scouring operations shall minimise effluent COD by maximising dirt removal and grease recovery, followed by treatment to the value specified in Table 3 either on or off site. The following COD limits shall apply to coarse and fine greasy wool scouring. Fine wool is defined as merino wool of ≤ 23,5 micron in diameter. Table 3 COD values for the final discharge of effluent from wool scouring Type of wool Final discharge to the environment (g COD/kg greasy wool) Coarse wool 25 g/kg Fine wool 45 g/kg A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall provide relevant data and test reports related to this criterion, using the following test method: ISO 6060. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the wool scouring site or, if the effluent is treated off- site, by the wastewater treatment operator. Compliance with this criterion shall be on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application. Criterion 16. Treatment of emissions to air and water 16(a) Wastewater discharges from wet processing Wastewater discharges to the environment shall not exceed 20 g COD/kg textiles processed. This requirement shall apply to weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing processes used to manufacture the product(s). The requirement shall be measured downstream of on-site wastewater treatment plant and/or off-site wastewater treatment plant receiving wastewater from these processing sites. If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it shall also meet the following requirements: (i) pH between 6,0 and 9,0 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range) (ii) temperature of less than 35 o C (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value) If colour removal is required by a derogation condition in criterion 14 then the following spectral absorption coefficients shall be met: (i) 436 nm (yellow sector) 7 m-1 (ii) 525 nm (red sector) 5 m-1 (iii) 620 nm (blue sector) 3 m-1 A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060 and ISO 7887 as relevant, and showing compliance with this criterion on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application, together with a declaration of compliance. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the production site or, if the effluent is treated off-site, by the wastewater treatment operator.

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criterion 2b) criterion 3b) criterion 16a)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 2. Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute and ramie) 2(b) Where water retting has been used the wastewater from retting ponds shall be treated so as to reduce the COD or TOC by at least 75 % for hemp fibres and by at least 95 % for flax and other bast fibres. A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: if water retting is used, the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance and using the following test method: ISO 6060 (COD) Criterion 3. Wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep and lambs, and hair from camel, alpaca and goat) 3(b) Wool scouring operations shall minimise effluent COD by maximising dirt removal and grease recovery, followed by treatment to the value specified in Table 3 either on or off site. The following COD limits shall apply to coarse and fine greasy wool scouring. Fine wool is defined as merino wool of ≤ 23,5 micron in diameter. Table 3 COD values for the final discharge of effluent from wool scouring Type of wool Final discharge to the environment (g COD/kg greasy wool) Coarse wool 25 g/kg Fine wool 45 g/kg A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall provide relevant data and test reports related to this criterion, using the following test method: ISO 6060. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the wool scouring site or, if the effluent is treated off- site, by the wastewater treatment operator. Compliance with this criterion shall be on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application. Criterion 16. Treatment of emissions to air and water 16(a) Wastewater discharges from wet processing Wastewater discharges to the environment shall not exceed 20 g COD/kg textiles processed. This requirement shall apply to weaving, dyeing, printing and finishing processes used to manufacture the product(s). The requirement shall be measured downstream of on-site wastewater treatment plant and/or off-site wastewater treatment plant receiving wastewater from these processing sites. If the effluent is treated on site and discharged directly to surface waters, it shall also meet the following requirements: (i) pH between 6,0 and 9,0 (unless the pH of the receiving water is outside this range) (ii) temperature of less than 35 o C (unless the temperature of the receiving water is above this value) If colour removal is required by a derogation condition in criterion 14 then the following spectral absorption coefficients shall be met: (i) 436 nm (yellow sector) 7 m-1 (ii) 525 nm (red sector) 5 m-1 (iii) 620 nm (blue sector) 3 m-1 A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and test reports, using ISO 6060 and ISO 7887 as relevant, and showing compliance with this criterion on the basis of monthly averages for the six months preceding the application, together with a declaration of compliance. The data shall demonstrate compliance by the production site or, if the effluent is treated off-site, by the wastewater treatment operator.

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criterion 2b criterion 3b criterion 16a

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Criterion 9: Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, modal and lyocell) Pulp production sub-criteria 9(c) Pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be bleached without the use of elemental chlorine. The resulting total amount of chlorine and organically bound chlorine in the finished fibres (OX) shall not exceed 150 ppm or in the wastewater from pulp manufacturing (AOX) shall not exceed 0,170 kg/ADt pulp. A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance with either the OX or the AOX requirement, using the appropriate test method: OX: ISO 11480 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry). AOX: ISO 9562

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criterion 9c

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1(c) Pesticide restrictions applying to conventional and IPM cotton All cotton used in ecolabelled textile products, with the exception of organic cotton and cotton from IPM schemes exempted in 1(b), shall be grown without the use of any of the following substances: Alachlor, aldicarb, aldrin, campheclor (toxaphene), captafol, chlordane, 2,4,5-T, chlordimeform, chlorobenzilate, cypermethrin, DDT, dieldrin, dinoseb and its salts, endosulfan, endrin, glyphosulfate, heptachlor, hexachlorobenzene, hexachlorocyclohexane (total isomers), methamidophos, methyl-o-dematon, methylparathion, monocrotophos, neonicotinoids (clothianidine, imidacloprid, thiametoxam), parathion, phosphamidon, pentachlorophenol, thiofanex, triafanex, triazophos Cotton shall not contain more than 0,5 ppm in total of the substances listed above. (...) Tests shall be made on samples of raw cotton from each country of origin and before it passes through any wet treatment. For each country of origin testing shall be carried out on the following basis: (i) Where only one lot of cotton is used per year a sample shall be taken from a randomly selected bale; (ii) If two or more lots of cotton are used per year composite samples shall be taken from 5 % of the bales. Cotton is not required to be tested where it has been certified by an IPM scheme that prohibits the use of the listed substances.

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criterion 1c)

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Criterion 4. Acrylic 4(a) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1,0 g/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance from the fibre manufacturer(s). 4(b) The workplace emissions to air of N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed an Indicative Occupational Exposure Limit Value (IOELV) of 10,0 ppm. Assessment and verification:emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion. Criterion 5. Elastane 5(a) Organotin compounds shall not be used to manufacture the fibres. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use from the fibre manufacturer(s). 5(b) The workplace emissions to air of the following substances during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed the following indicative occupational exposure limit values (IOELV): (i) diphenylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate (101-68-8) 0,005 ppm (ii) toluene-2,4-diisocyanate (584-84-9) 0,005 ppm (iii) N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) 10,0 ppm Assessment and verification:emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion. Criterion 6. Polyamide (or nylon) Polyamide products shall comply with at least one of the production standards listed in sub-criteria 6(a) and 6(b). Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating a content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28. 6(a) Production standard 1: Minimum recycled content. Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of 20 % nylon that has been recycled from pre and/or post-consumer waste. Assessment and verification:recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors. 6(b) Production standard 2: N2O emissions from monomer production. The emissions to air of N2O from nylon monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 9,0 g N2O/kg of caprolactam (for nylon 6) or adipic acid (for nylon 6,6). Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide documentation or test reports showing compliance based on monitoring data, together with a declaration of compliance from fibre manufacturer(s) and their feedstock providers. Criterion 7. Polyester Textile products that are primarily for sale to consumers shall comply with sub-criteria (a) and (b). Textile products that are primarily for sale to commercial or public sector customers shall comply with (a) and either (b) or (c). Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating this content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28. 7(a) The level of antimony present in the polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm. Polyester fibres manufactured from recycled PET bottles are derogated from this requirement. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall either provide a declaration of non-use or a test report using the following test methods: direct determination by Atomic Absorption Spectrometry or Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP) Mass Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on a composite sample of raw fibres prior to any wet processing. A declaration shall be provided for fibres manufactured from recycled PET bottles. 7(b) Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of PET that has been recycled from pre-consumer and/or post-consumer waste. Staple fibres shall contain a minimum content of 50 % and filament fibres 20 %. Micro- fibres are derogated from this requirement and shall instead comply with (c). Assessment and verification:recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors. 7(c) The emissions of VOCs during the production of polyester, expressed as an annual average including both point sources and fugitive emissions, shall not exceed 1,2 g/kg for PET chips and 10,3 g/kg for filament fibre. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide monitoring data and/or test reports demonstrating compliance with EN 12619 or standards with an equivalent test method. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites for ecolabelled products shall be provided for a minimum of six months preceding the application. Criterion 8. Polypropylene Lead based pigments shall not be used. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a declaration of non-use. Criterion 9. Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, modal and lyocell) Pulp production sub-criteria 9(a)A minimum 25 % of pulp fibres shall be manufactured from wood that has been grown according to the principles of sustainable forestry management as defined by the UN FAO. The remaining proportion of pulp fibres shall be from pulp that is sourced from legal forestry and plantations. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall obtain from the fibre manufacturer(s) valid, independently certified chain of custody certificates demonstrating that the wood fibres have been grown according to sustainable forestry management principles and/or are from legal sources. FSC, PEFC or equivalent schemes shall be accepted as independent certification. The fibre manufacturer shall demonstrate that due diligence processes have been followed as specified in Regulation (EU) No 995/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) in order to ensure that timber has been legally harvested. Valid EU FLEGT (Forest Law Enforcement, Governance and Trade) or UN CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) licenses and/or third party certification shall be accepted as evidence of legal sourcing. 9(b) Pulp produced from cotton linters shall, as a minimum, meet with the requirements of either cotton criterion 1a or 1b. Assessment and verification:as indicated in the corresponding criteria 9(c) Pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be bleached without the use of elemental chlorine. The resulting total amount of chlorine and organically bound chlorine in the finished fibres (OX) shall not exceed 150 ppm or in the wastewater from pulp manufacturing (AOX) shall not exceed 0,170 kg/ADt pulp. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a test report showing compliance with either the OX or the AOX requirement, using the appropriate test method: OX: ISO 11480 (controlled combustion and microcoulometry). AOX: ISO 9562 9(d) A minimum of 50 % of the pulp used to manufacture fibres shall be purchased from dissolving pulp mills that recover value from their spent process liquors either by: (i) Generating on-site electricity and steam (ii) Manufacturing chemical co-products. 13.6.2014 L 174/56 Official Journal of the European Union EN (1)Regulation (EU) No 995/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 20 October 2010 laying down the obligations of operators who place timber and timber products on the market Text with EEA relevance (OJ L 295, 12.11.2010, p. 23). Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a list of pulp suppliers supplying the raw material used to make the fibres and the proportion of pulp that they supply. Documentation and evidence shall be provided that the required proportion of suppliers have the appropriate energy generating equipment and/or co- product recovery and manufacturing systems installed at related production sites. Fibre production sub-criteria 9(e) For viscose and modal fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from fibre production processes, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed the following performance values in Table 4. Table 4 Viscose and Modal fibre sulphur emissions values Fibre type Performance value (g S/kg) Staple fibre 30 g/kg Filament fibre — Batch washing — Integrated washing 40 g/kg 170 g/kg Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance.

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criterion 4 criterion 5 criterion 6 criterion 7 criterion 8 criterion 9

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1. TEXTILE FIBRE CRITERIA (...) Any fibre, including the above listed ones, may be used without having to meet the textile fibre criteria if it contributes to less than 5 % of the total weight of the product or if it constitutes a padding or lining. With the exception of polyamide and polyester the textile fibre criteria do not have to be met in the following cases: (i) By the whole product if the fibres contain recycled content that in total amounts to at least 70 % by weight of all the fibres in the product; (ii) By individual fibres forming part of the ecolabelled product where the fibre type contains at least 70 % by weight of recycled content. For the purposes of calculating the percentage of cotton in a product that shall be required to comply with criterion 1(a) or 1(b), the recycled cotton fibre content shall be deducted from the required minimum percentages except in the case of clothing for babies under 3 years old. Criterion 6. Polyamide (or nylon) Polyamide products shall comply with at least one of the production standards listed in sub-criteria 6(a) and 6(b). Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating a content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28. 6(a) Production standard 1: Minimum recycled content. Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of 20 % nylon that has been recycled from pre and/or post-consumer waste. Assessment and verification:recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors. Criterion 7. Polyester Textile products that are primarily for sale to consumers shall comply with sub-criteria (a) and (b). Textile products that are primarily for sale to commercial or public sector customers shall comply with (a) and either (b) or (c). Any product that meets the minimum recycled content threshold shall be permitted to display additional text alongside the Ecolabel communicating this content claim. Guidance is provided in criterion 28. (...) 7(b) Fibres shall be manufactured using a minimum content of PET that has been recycled from pre-consumer and/or post-consumer waste. Staple fibres shall contain a minimum content of 50 % and filament fibres 20 %. Micro- fibres are derogated from this requirement and shall instead comply with (c). Assessment and verification:recycled content shall be traceable back to the reprocessing of the feedstock. This shall be verified by independent certification of the chain of custody or by documentation provided by suppliers and processors.

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1. TEXTILE FIBRE CRITERIA criterion 6a criterion 7b

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Criterion 1. Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok) Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall contain a minimum content of either organic cotton (see criterion 1a) or integrated pest management (IPM) cotton (see criterion 1b). In addition to this: (...) — Only in case an organic cotton claim is made under criterion 28, for the production standard 1(a), all conventional cotton and IPM cotton that is blended with organic cotton shall come from non-genetically modified varieties, 1(a) Organic production standard (...) For conventional and IPM cotton that is blended with organic cotton, a qualitative screening test for common genetic modifications carried out according to EU Reference Methods for GMO analysis ( 1 ) and indicating a GMO-free result shall be accepted as a proof of compliance. Tests shall be made on samples of raw cotton from each country of origin and before it passes through any wet treatment. Certification of IPM cotton by schemes that exclude genetically modified cotton shall be accepted as proof of compliance.

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criterion 1 criterion 1a

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4.FITNESS FOR USE CRITERIA The criteria in this section apply to intermediate fabric and knitted product and to the final product. Criterion 17. Dimensional changes during washing and drying The dimensional changes after washing and drying at either domestic or industrial washing temperatures and conditions shall not exceed those specified in Table 8. Table 8 Tolerances for dimensional changes during washing and drying Textile products or type of material Dimensional changes during washing and drying Knitted fabrics ± 4,0 % Chunky knit ± 6,0 % Interlock ± 5,0 % Woven fabrics: — Cotton and cotton mix — Wool mix — Synthetic fibres ± 3,0 % ± 2,0 % ± 2,0 % Socks and hosiery ± 8,0 % Bathroom linen, including terry towelling and fine rib fabrics ± 8,0 % Washable and removable woven upholstery — Curtains and furniture fabric ± 2,0 % — Mattress ticking ± 3,0 % Non-woven fabrics — Mattress ticking — All other fabrics ± 5,0 % ± 6,0 % This criterion does not apply to: (a) fibres or yarn; (b) products clearly labelled ‘dry clean only’ or equivalent; (c) furniture fabrics that are not removable and washable. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide test reports using the standards appropriate for the product. For domestic washing EN ISO 6330 in combination with EN ISO 5077 shall be used as follows: three washes at temperatures as indicated on the product, with tumble drying after each washing cycle. For commercial washing in industrial laundries ISO 15797 in combination with EN ISO 5077 shall be used at a minimum of 75 °C or as indicated in the standard for the fibre and bleaching combination. Drying shall be as indicated on the product label. Alternatively for removable and washable mattress ticking EN ISO 6330 in combination with EN 25077 shall be used. The default conditions shall be washing 3A (60 °C) and drying C (flat drying) unless the product label states otherwise. Criterion 18. Colour fastness to washing The colour fastness to washing shall be at least level 3-4 for colour change and at least level 3-4 for staining. This criterion does not apply to products labelled ‘dry clean only’ or equivalent (in so far as it is normal practice for such products to be so labelled), to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to non-washable furniture fabrics. Assessment and verification:for domestic washing the applicant shall provide test reports using the test method: ISO 105 C06 (single wash, at temperature as marked on the product, with perborate powder). For commercial washing in industrial laundries ISO 15797 in combination with ISO 105 C06 shall be used at a minimum of 75 °C or as indicated in the standard for the fibre and bleaching combination. Criterion 19. Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline) The colour fastness to perspiration (acid and alkaline) shall be at least level 3-4 (colour change and staining). A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both dark coloured (standard depth > 1/1) and made of regenerated wool. This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 E04 (acid and alkaline, comparison with multi-fibre fabric). Criterion 20. Colour fastness to wet rubbing The colour fastness to wet rubbing shall be at least level 2-3. A level of 2 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12. Criterion 21. Colour fastness to dry rubbing The colour fastness to dry rubbing shall be at least level 4. A level of 3-4 is nevertheless allowed for indigo dyed denim. This criterion does not apply to white products or products that are neither dyed nor printed, or to curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 X12. Criterion 22. Colour fastness to light For fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes, the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 5. For all other products the colour fastness to light shall be at least level 4. A level of 4 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics intended for furniture, curtains or drapes are both light coloured (standard depth < 1/12) and made of more than 20 % wool or other keratin fibres, or more than 20 % linen or other bast fibres. This requirement does not apply to mattress ticking, mattress protection or underwear. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test method: ISO 105 B02. Criterion 23. Wash resistance and absorbency of cleaning products Cleaning products shall be wash resistant and absorbent according to the relevant testing parameters identified in Tables 9 and 10. The testing specified for absorbency shall not apply to twisted yarn products. Table 9 Values and parameters for the wash resistance of cleaning products Textile cleaning products or type of material Numbers of washes Temperature EN ISO 6630 test reference Woven and non-woven products for wet cleaning 80 40 °C Procedure 4N Microfibre products for dusting 200 40 °C Procedure 4N Products deriving from recycled textile fibres 20 30 °C Procedure 3G Mops for washing floors 200 60 °C Procedure 6N Cloths for washing floors 5 30 °C Procedure 3G Table 10 Values and parameters for the absorbency of cleaning products Textile cleaning products or type of material Liquid absorbency time Products deriving from recycled textile fibres ≤ 10 seconds Microfibre products for surface and floor cleaning ≤ 10 seconds Woven and non-woven products for wet cleaning ≤ 10 seconds Products for washing floors ≤ 10 seconds Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide test reports using the following test methods as relevant: EN ISO 6330 and EN ISO 9073-6. Testing according to EN ISO 6330 shall be carried out using washing machine type A for all products and materials. Criterion 24. Fabric resistance to pilling and abrasion Non-woven fabrics and knitted garments, accessories and blankets made of wool, wool blends and polyester (including fleece), shall resist pilling to rating of a minimum of 3. Woven cotton fabrics used for garments shall resist pilling to a rating of a minimum of 3. Polyamide tights and leggings shall resist to a rating of a minimum of 2. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out as appropriate to the substrate: — Knitted and non-woven products: ISO 12945-1 Pill box method — Woven fabrics: ISO 12945-2 Martindale method Criterion 25. durability of function Finishes, treatments and additives that impart water, oil and stain repellency flame retardancy and easy care (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press) to the textile product when it is in use shall be durable according to the values and parameters set out in sub-criteria 25(a), (b) and (c). For water, oil and stain repellents consumers shall be provided with guidance on how to maintain the functionality of finishes applied to the product. Textile fibres, fabrics and membranes that lend the final product intrinsic functional properties are exempt from these requirements. Assessment and verification:for products with intrinsic properties applicants shall provide test reports demonstrating comparable or improved performance compared with alternatives that may be applied as finishes. 25(a) Water, oil and stain repellent functions Water repellents shall retain a functionality of 80 out of 90 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C. Oil repellents shall retain a functionality of 3,5 out of 4,0 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C. Stain repellents shall retain a functionality of 3,0 out of 5,0 after 20 domestic wash and tumble dry cycles at 40 °C, or after 10 industrial washing and drying cycles at a minimum of 75 °C. Industrial washing temperatures may be reduced to 60 °C for garments with taped seams. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the following standards, as appropriate to the product: For all products domestic wash cycles ISO 6330 or industrial laundry cycles ISO 15797 in combination with: — water repellents: ISO 4920 — oil repellents: ISO 14419 — stain repellents: ISO 22958 25(b) Flame retardant functions Washable products shall retain their functionality after 50 industrial wash and tumble dry cycles at a minimum of 75 °C. Non-washable products shall retain their functionality after a soak test. Assessment and verification:The applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the following standards, as appropriate to the product: For domestic wash cycles ISO 6330 or commercial laundry cycles EN ISO 10528 both in combination with EN ISO 12138. Where the textile is non-removable BS 5651 or equivalent. 25(c) Easy-care (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press) Natural fibre products shall achieve an SA-3 fabric smoothness grade and blended natural and synthetic fibre products an SA-4 fabric smoothness grade after 10 domestic wash and tumble drying cycles at 40 °C. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide reports from tests carried out according to the ISO 7768 test method for assessing the smoothness appearance of fabrics after washing

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criterion 17 criterion 18 criterion 19 criterion 20 criterion 21 criterion 22 criterion 23 criterion 24 criterion 25

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 15. Washing, drying and curing energy efficiency The applicant shall demonstrate that the energy used in washing, drying and curing steps associated with dyeing, printing and finishing steps for ecolabelled products is measured and benchmarked as part of an energy or carbon dioxide emissions management system. Furthermore, they shall demonstrate that production sites have implemented a minimum number of Best Available Techniques (BAT) energy efficiency techniques as specified in Table 7 and as listed in Appendix 3 to this decision. Washing, rinsing and drying energy efficiency techniques BAT themes Production volume < 10 tonnes/day > 10 tonnes/day 1. General energy management Two techniques Three techniques 2. Washing and rinsing processes One technique Two techniques 3. Drying and curing using stenter frames One technique Two techniques Assessment and verification:the applicant shall compile reporting from energy management systems for each dyeing, printing and finishing production site. ISO 50001 or equivalent systems for energy or carbon dioxide emissions shall be accepted as evidence for the energy management system. The evidence required of BAT implementation shall include, as a minimum, site photographs, technical descriptions of each technique and evaluations of the energy savings achieved. Appendix 3: Best available technique in the field of washing, drying and curing energy efficiency Domain BAT Techniques 1. General energy management 1.1 Sub-metering, 1.2 Process monitoring and automatic control systems for flow control, filling volumes, temperatures and timing; 1.3 Insulation of pipework, valves and flanges 1.4 Frequency controlled electric motors and pumps 1.5 Closed design of machines to reduce vapour loss 1.6 Water and liquor re-use/recycling in batch processes 1.7 Heat recovery e.g. rinse water, steam condensate, process exhaust air, combustion gases 2. Washing and rinsing process 2.1 Use of cooling water as process water 2.2 Replacement of overflow washing with drainage/inflow washing 2.3 Use of ‘smart’ rinsing technologies with water flow controls and counter currents 2.4 Installation of heat exchangers 3. Drying and curing using stenter frames 3.1 Optimisation of air flow 3.2 Insulation of enclosures 3.3 Installation of Efficient burner systems 3.4 Installation of heat recovery systems Note: New BAT techniques referenced and recommended by EU Member State authorities after the date of publication of the European Commission’s textile BREF (2003) shall be considered complementary to those listed above.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 15 appendix 3

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 3. Wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep and lambs, and hair from camel, alpaca and goat) 3(c) Wool scourers shall implement at least one of the following measures to recover value from either oxidised grease, fibre, suint or sludge arising from the scouring site used for the ecolabelled wool products: (i) recovery for sale as a chemical feedstock; (ii) the production of compost or liquid fertiliser; (iii) the manufacturing of products such as building materials; (iv) treatment and energy recovery by anaerobic digestion or incineration. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide a report and waste transfer notes confirming the type and proportion of waste recovered and the method used.

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criterion 3c)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 4. Acrylic 4(a) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1,0 g/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance from the fibre manufacturer(s). 4(b) The workplace emissions to air of N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed an Indicative Occupational Exposure Limit Value (IOELV) of 10,0 ppm. Assessment and verification:emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion. 6(b) Production standard 2: N2O emissions from monomer production. The emissions to air of N2O from nylon monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 9,0 g N2O/kg of caprolactam (for nylon 6) or adipic acid (for nylon 6,6). Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide documentation or test reports showing compliance based on monitoring data, together with a declaration of compliance from fibre manufacturer(s) and their feedstock providers. Fibre production sub-criteria 9(e) For viscose and modal fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from fibre production processes, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed the following performance values in Table 4. Table 4 Viscose and Modal fibre sulphur emissions values Fibre type Performance value (g S/kg) Staple fibre 30 g/kg Filament fibre — Batch washing — Integrated washing 40 g/kg 170 g/kg Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 16(b) Emissions to air from printing and finishing processes Total emissions of organic compounds, as defined in Council Directive 1999/13/EC (1), from textile printing and finishing production sites used to manufacture the ecolabelled product(s) shall not exceed 100,0 mg C/Nm3. Where textile coating and drying processes allow for the recovery and reuse of solvents an emissions limit of 150,0 mg C/Nm3 shall apply. Finishing processes include the thermosetting, thermosoling, coating and impregnating of textiles including their respective drying (stenter) facilities. A s s e s s m e n t a n d v e r i f i c a t i o n: the applicant shall demonstrate compliance according to EN 12619 or other equivalent standards. Calculation of the emissions of organic compounds based on the method described in the most current European Commission Reference document for best available techniques for the Textiles Industry shall also be accepted. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites shall be provided for the six months preceding the application. Where recovery and reuse of solvents is carried out then monitoring data shall be provided to evidence the operation of these systems.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 4a) criterion 4b) criterion 6b) criterion 9e) criterion 16b)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 4. Acrylic 4(a) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile (during polymerisation and up to the solution ready for spinning), expressed as an annual average, shall be less than 1,0 g/kg of fibre produced. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance from the fibre manufacturer(s). 4(b) The workplace emissions to air of N,N-dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) during polymerisation and spinning shall not exceed an Indicative Occupational Exposure Limit Value (IOELV) of 10,0 ppm. Assessment and verification:emissions values are to be measured at those process stages in which the substances are used, expressed as an 8-hour average value (shift mean value). The applicant shall provide test reports and monitoring data from the fibre manufacturer(s) showing compliance with this criterion. 6(b) Production standard 2: N2O emissions from monomer production. The emissions to air of N2O from nylon monomer production, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed 9,0 g N2O/kg of caprolactam (for nylon 6) or adipic acid (for nylon 6,6). Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide documentation or test reports showing compliance based on monitoring data, together with a declaration of compliance from fibre manufacturer(s) and their feedstock providers. Fibre production sub-criteria 9(e) For viscose and modal fibres, the sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air from fibre production processes, expressed as an annual average, shall not exceed the following performance values in Table 4. Table 4 Viscose and Modal fibre sulphur emissions values Fibre type Performance value (g S/kg) Staple fibre 30 g/kg Filament fibre — Batch washing — Integrated washing 40 g/kg 170 g/kg Assessment and verification:the applicant shall provide detailed documentation and/or test reports showing compliance with this criterion, together with a declaration of compliance. 16(b) Emissions to air from printing and finishing processes Total emissions of organic compounds, as defined in Council Directive 1999/13/EC (1), from textile printing and finishing production sites used to manufacture the ecolabelled product(s) shall not exceed 100,0 mg C/Nm3. Where textile coating and drying processes allow for the recovery and reuse of solvents an emissions limit of 150,0 mg C/Nm3 shall apply. Finishing processes include the thermosetting, thermosoling, coating and impregnating of textiles including their respective drying (stenter) facilities. Assessment and verification:the applicant shall demonstrate compliance according to EN 12619 or other equivalent standards. Monthly averages for the total emissions of organic compounds from production sites shall be provided for the six months preceding the application. Where recovery and reuse of solvents is carried out then monitoring data shall be provided to evidence the operation of these systems.

Referenzdokumente:

criterion 4a) criterion 4b) criterion 6b) criterion 9e) criterion 16b)

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 26. Fundamental principles and rights at work Applicants shall ensure that the fundamental principles and rights at work as described in the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) Core Labour Standards, the UN Global Compact and the OECD Guidelines for Multi-National Enterprises shall be observed by all cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the licensed product(s). For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 087 Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise

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criterion 26

Excerpt from standard:

Criterion 26. Fundamental principles and rights at work Applicants shall ensure that the fundamental principles and rights at work as described in the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) Core Labour Standards, the UN Global Compact and the OECD Guidelines for Multi-National Enterprises shall be observed by all cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the licensed product(s). For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 098 Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining

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criterion 26

Excerpt from standard:

For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 029 Forced Labour 105 Abolition of Forced Labour

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criterion 26

Excerpt from standard:

For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 138 Minimum Age Convention

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criterion 26

Excerpt from standard:

For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 182 Elimination of the Worst Forms of Child Labour

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criterion 26

Excerpt from standard:

Fundamental principles and rights at work Applicants shall ensure that the fundamental principles and rights at work as described in the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) Core Labour Standards, the UN Global Compact and the OECD Guidelines for Multi-National Enterprises shall be observed by all cut/make/trim production sites used to manufacture the licensed product(s). For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 100 Equal remuneration

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Criterion 26.

Excerpt from standard:

.For the purpose of verification the following ILO Core Labour Standards shall be referred to: 111 Discrimination (Employment and Occupation)

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criterion 26